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Wonder
Wonder  }  Place of worship

Pieve del Tho, Romanesque jewel of Romagna

An ancient parish church in the surroundings of Brisighella suspended between charm and mystery

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Where is

Emilia-Romagna

Via Siepi, 2, 48013 Brisighella RA, Italia (0m s.l.m.)

Directions
map

What is it and where is the parish church of Tho

There is a beautiful parish church in the lush countryside of Romagna, near Brisighella. Around it, few rural buildings and much, much greenery. The church, of roughly squared stones, has a basilica plan and a double-gabled facade supported by two buttresses. In front of the entrance is a small porch, added in modern times. A frieze of hanging arches runs along the entire attic. Behind it is concluded by a circular apse, with two ribs enclosing a mullioned window whose capital has a zoomorphic motif.

Not to be missed: the interior

The interior, for those who are fortunate enough to see it, is fascinating, with its bare columns, its resulting capitals, all different, and the soft light that filters through the small windows. The walls retain traces of frescoes from the 14th to 16th centuries. Unfortunately, the parish church is only accessible on Sundays and holidays (but not during celebrations) for a few hours, so you have to plan your visit carefully, or be content with the peace you enjoy sitting in the bench at the back.

Not to be missed: the crypt

Not to be missed is the atmospheric crypt, an itinerary enriched by panels telling its story, and the display of Roman and medieval materials found during the excavations, which even include the remains of a bell furnace.

Curiosity: why "Tho"?

The curious name of the Pieve is an abbreviation of its full name, Pieve di San Giovanni in Ottavo, and derives from its location along the Via Faentina, the road that connected Ravenna to Florence; in fact, the church was located right at the eighth mile.

A bit of history, a bit of legend

There are many legends about its foundation. Some claim that it stands on the site where there was a temple dedicated to the goddess Feronia, an Italic deity of fertility, to whom the woods and fountains were dedicated; another says that instead it was founded on the ruins of a temple dedicated to Jupiter Ammon, referring to the river that flows beside it, the Lamone. Yet another legend has it founded by Galla Placidia, the daughter of Theodosius. In reality, very little is known about this church and its history has yet to be written. The earliest documents referring to it date from 909 but its origin can be dated to the 9th century, if not earlier.

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Patrizia Iome

I saw the Pieve in May: at the foot of the soft hills of Romagna, in the peace of the fields, I smelled the air that smelled of cut hay.

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