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Swordfish alla ghiotta: Scilla’s “locally sourced” cuisine

In the Strait of Messina, swordfish is much more than just food: it is history, myth, ritual, and identity.

Local flavors
Local flavors

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Where

Calabria

Via Monacena, 48, 89058 Scilla RC, Italia (0m s.l.m.)

Directions
map

At Sea: A Millennia-Old Tradition

“The fish was caught this morning,” the chef reveals proudly. He bought it at the pier from the fishermen who , from May through the end of July , have been making the daily trek across the sea off Scilla in their nimble “passerelle” boats since time immemorial , waiting to spot “the prince of the sea.” His story touches on many aspects: traditions, myths, the daily toil, the tools of the trade, and the sacredness of rituals and words that date back to the Greek and Byzantine worlds. One thing strikes us: the fish isn’t just food—it’s part of the local identity.

In the kitchen: swordfish alla ghiotta

A drizzle of oil in the pan, a whole clove of garlic, a sprinkle of parsley, a bit of onion. Chef Enzo lets it brown for a few moments, and the aroma of Mediterranean cuisine already fills the air. He adds the datterini tomatoes, which sizzle merrily, then the chopped olives and a handful of capers. He sautés them. A pinch of salt and black pepper, and voilà: the sauce is ready.

Armed with two large knives, our chef shows us how to cut a large piece of swordfish. Then he takes another pan, adds a drizzle of oil, and places the fish in it. Another wave of aroma. “The less cooking, the better,” he reveals. Could this be the secret? Or is it the magic of Scilla, the strong currents of the Strait, a hunt that even today resembles a sacred ritual? The chef pours the sauce over the fish. He lets it cook “for just a minute.” The smoke (and aroma) rises. But if it gets too dry—the chef tells us very practically—just add a splash of water, and you’ll create a nice little sauce.

On the table: high-quality, seasonal ingredients

With homemade bread and a good glass of white wine, we’re ready for this first taste. Swordfish, Chef Salvatore tells us as he prepares the ingredients for the next course, is also known as the “pig of the sea”: nothing goes to waste. Awaiting us are the famous rolls with flavorful fillings (his specialty) and the equally famous swordfish sandwich with salmoriglio, which, for mysterious reasons, has become the quintessential dish of Scilla’s summers.

From Strangers to Temporary Residents

And after this experience at the restaurant “Il Ponte,” at the end of Marina Grande, we feel right at home: we’ve nourished (well) both body and spirit, and we’re a little more aware and a little happier. Our thanks go to the chefs, Enzo and Salvatore, and to the staff at Il Ponte: Mary, Marianna, Giuseppe, and Angelo. Their story is worth hearing, too!

The Map thanks:

Recommended by
I Love Scilla

Recommended Reading: Francesco Porcaro, “The Swordfish: Scylla, Myth, and Legend,” Lamezia Terme, grafichEditore, 2026

In collaboration with
Giancarlo Dellorco

Scilla, dove peschiamo sorrisi – Comune di Scilla – PNRR Ministero della Cultura M1C3, Mis. 2, Inv. 2.1 “Attrattività dei borghi storici” – Finanziato dall’Unione europea, NextGenerationEU – CUP F79I22000150006

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